Unlike many of its European capital city counterparts, Lisbon is open to definition and enjoys a relaxed identity. It’s not the home of techno music (hello, Berlin). It isn’t the destination that you visit intending to make a wish at a certain fountain (cough, Trevi, cough), or the place for museum visits to sniff out Dutch Masters (Amsterdam). In fact, it isn’t where you go for any one particular thing and therein lies its beauty. Everyone can find their vibe or tribe there. Night owls will have no problem finding places to burn the midnight oil, and beach lovers can get their feet sandy at the nearby towns of Cascais and Sintra, mere minutes away by train. Lisbon also has an art scene and quirky experiences like the Hospital de Bonecas, the world’s oldest repair shop for dolls. Yes, dolls. Being centuries older than London, Lisbon should be a top-of-mind destination for history buffs, too, and foodies can find comfort in the seafood-rich Lisbon diet, and you’ll find pretty much any kind of fish in a can, from sardines to smoked eel. Here are seven things to do in Lisbon for first-time visitors.

Lisbon city video tour by Rosie Bell

1. Discover the neighborhoods on foot

The best way to get under Lisbon’s skin is on foot, wearing sturdy footwear, of course. One area you’ll hear a lot about is Bairro Alto, which translates to “high neighborhood.” It might just knock you out with its cobbled floors, quaint tavernas, beautiful architecture, and steep hills. You won’t want to miss a stroll through Alfama, the part of Lisbon that survived the great 1755 earthquake that ravaged much of the city. Back then, locals from affected parts were suspicious of Alfama and called it “the fortunate neighborhood.”

Walking around the city is like stepping through a playful art gallery due to the unique patterns on the cobbled floors, appropriately named “the Portuguese pavement”. Additionally, the ever-abundant azulejos, colourful ceramic tiles, are said to contribute to what’s known as Lisbon’s incredible light. Follow their trail throughout the city to capture it.

Convento do Carmo was partially destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.

2. Take in a fado show

Fado, a genre of music born in the city, is a series of chimes of despondency, nostalgia, and longing. It comes from the Latin word fatum for destiny and it’s a showcase of saudade, a word that exists only in Portuguese and can be defined as “the presence of absence.” Fado music is mournful, solemn, and is said to express the wreckage of explorers and conquerors leaving behind pining hearts in Portugal. Ultimately, it is the music of love. Dotted all over Alfama, there are restaurants where you may take in a Fado show and feel the highly-charged emotions ripple through the blood during a candlelit dinner.

3. Dine alfresco on Calçada do Duque

The alfresco dining opportunities on Calçada do Duque will snatch your heart. This is a narrow staircase street that’s lined with charming restaurants. Find your perfect spot and tuck into bacalhau à brás (salted cod shreds, potato and onion bound by scrambled eggs) or juicy pulpo (octopus), accompanied by a glass of Portugal’s green wine if that tickles your fancy. Right around the corner from Calçada do Duque on Rua da Oliveira ao Carmo, be sure to keep an eye out for the mysterious singular metal nose stuck onto a wall.

The curious metal nose on a wall at Rua da Oliveira ao Carmo

4. Catch sunset from one of the miradouros

Is there a better time than the moment the sun sinks lazily into the horizon? Lisbon was built on a series of hills, so sunset lovers should ascend to any of the city’s many miradouros (viewpoints) for sunset, the dreamiest time of the day. Such stunning terraces include Miradouro das Portas do Sol in Alfama, Miradouro de Graça (officially named Miradouro Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen, after the poet), Miradouro de Santa Luzia, Miradouro de Santa Catarina, or Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântars.

5. Eat your heart out at Time Out Market

If you travel for food, you’ll love Time Out Market Lisboa, an indoor food hall in the historic Mercado da Ribeira in Cais do Sodre. You’ll find a carefully curated selection of the best of Lisbon under one roof. Time Out Market is one of the top things to do in Lisbon, so go there to eat well at the various stalls. After all, as the early-20th-century English writer Virginia Woolf once wrote, “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well if one has not dined well.”

6. Bite into pastel de nata

Pastel de nata is a delicious custard tart that can be found at any Lisbon bakery. Even custard haters run the risk of addiction. One tart is a pastel and multiple tarts are pastéis. You should know now that there’s no such thing as just one pastel. Pastéis de Belém is one of the most-reviewed bakeries on the planet, and they’ve been serving their own secret recipe of pastel de nata tarts since before any of us were born (1837, in case you were wondering).

7. Visit in June for the Santo António celebrations

Go on and add June 12th to your calendar. Lisbon’s patron saint is the cause for a decadent celebration that sees the city taken over by charming paper globes and garland decorations, the scent of grilled sardines, costumed marches, and much hysteria. The build-up to the main event is just as much fun. From the start of June, decorations are already up and Lisboetas start fuelling up on street food and Ginja (my preferred spot to procure this is Ginjinha Sem Rival on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão).

Santo António (Saint Anthony) is highly respected and widely worshipped in Lisbon. He is also said to be a holy matchmaker and fosterer of marriages. During this time, couples and those in search of love are gifted with manjericos, petite plants of basil, along with colorful Paper Mache flowers. They represent a promise of love for the year to come. Santo António is a time of color, aliveness, and community. If you are already smitten with this Iberian city, you’ll be even more enamored if you visit in June.